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Topics - SidewaysEightSix

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General Discussion / Happy 8-6!
« on: August 06, 2018, 02:52:59 PM »
Another year, another Aug. 6th.   

Who's doing anything fun?

General Discussion / Donut meet.
« on: March 03, 2018, 09:36:54 PM »
I'm posting this last minute, sorry

There's a meet going down tomorrow (March 4th) at Beyond Donuts at 83rd and Union Hills.  I'll be there, Fida will be there in the 1uz Corolla, maybe Dan and Pizza chris too.   Get there early cuz parking was impossible last time.   This meet is bigger than you think.  Come get sushi in the racecars and donuts for dessert. (The pastry kind, or well both I guess if you don't do the car one on site)

General Discussion / Very Merry Xmas
« on: December 24, 2017, 12:57:15 PM »
Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah, Happy holidays to all you fellow Toyota fans!   I hope your holidays are filled with laughter, and cheer!  And maybe some new parts from the gear head Santa!

Tell us what you got!

Trucks & Vans / Ain't Toyota. Ain't Care
« on: November 02, 2016, 12:32:30 AM »
It's a van!

1996 Chevy Astro panel van.  It's now my new Sideways Engineering van, responsible for parts running, Racecar hauling, and HVAC/R side work.   Kinda stoked.    Has a shitty alarm that I need to remove(already had to bypass it twice lol) AC doesn't work.  Has hail dents. Sliding door won't open.    Has super low miles.   It's a tax write off so whatever. 

I'm stoked

General Discussion / Hollywood Hachi's (and other neat finds)
« on: September 25, 2016, 09:51:52 PM »
I know we posted a few of these already....

But.  Watching netflix with the women I found a maroon Kouki SR5 Coupe AE86 in New Girl S:4 E:14 (I think, maybe other episodes too as its a characters car in the series). Let's do a Mr. Skin of Toyota/JDM finds?

Flight : Blue Zenki GTS (hatch driven by woman patient)
Transformers : Green TE72 wagon (in scene where sam and his dad pull into the used lot)

New Girl (S4 Ep14): Maroon Kouki SR5 Coupe (driven by one of the characters (Coach))

Technical / Clutch pedal issues
« on: August 06, 2015, 01:39:46 PM »
Anyone aware of a different ae86 clutch pedal?

I've got an OEM clutch master and pedal.  However my master had this damper on the pedal adjuster/U bolt.  Now oem stuff is pulling my pedal to the floor.  I've looked at my other cars, and zeros car.  Everything looks the same as mine, however unless I put this spacer/damper in, nothing lines up correctly.  I'm confused.

Technical / AE86 hatch supports
« on: June 16, 2015, 08:55:31 PM »
Anyone know the correct part number for these on rock auto?   Otherwise I'm going to have to try Toyota OEM

I'm tired of getting knocked the fuck out by a race car I havent abused yet

Technical / Clutch fork. SR5 vs. GT-S
« on: May 22, 2015, 09:54:47 PM »
Is there a difference.    I'd assume not.   But I do not have both to compare side by side unless I pull a gearbox

Technical / S13/Z32 brake master question
« on: November 17, 2014, 07:46:00 PM »
Donavon is probably the only one on here that would know.

Anyway I'm rocking a S13/z32 non-ABS brake master on the corolla but I have some heat soak concerns with my exhaust manifold.  For some reason I'm under an impression and just need a straight answer.

Do the S13 non abs master cylinders come with the brake line ports on the opposite side?  As in driver/left side of the master opposed to mine which is on the right/passenger side of the master?


General Discussion / Car Guy BBQ
« on: December 04, 2013, 04:04:28 PM »
Come on out to Car Guy for a nice little gearhead BBQ.  This is always a good time.  Nice mix of import and domestic cars.  good food, cold drinks, plenty of room for cars, burnouts, doughnuts, and even some tight drifting.  Come eat some grub, slay a tire or two, and partake in the shenanigans!

When: This Saturday: 12/7/13 11:00AM
Where: Chandler Blvd. and Hamilton St.   Chandler
Why: Why Not!? DO YOU NOT READ?!?!??


General Discussion / Derlin Bushings
« on: September 24, 2013, 05:15:06 PM »
Ok so my sponsor shop, Car Guy, has a lathe and a shit ton of derlin material.  He has already made rack bushings for a Rav 4 and all sorts of other hard to find, or expensive bushings for customers.

Now tho, he wants to expand his production and is looking for more parts to reproduce.  So, what bushings have you had trouble finding? (Any car) orrrr

What bushings would you like to upgrade?  I've pitched some ideas, but let the AZT brainstorm happen.

Nothing is a bad suggestion at this point.  Fire away.

Technical / bogging missing in the top end. under high load
« on: August 30, 2013, 07:35:24 PM »
ok the 4ac is missing/or bogging in the upper range.  only happens from 3rd and up, and gets worse with load.  beside that the car runs fine.

basically from 4,700 is starts missing/sputtering at WOT.  if I back off to about 15-25% throttle, she will rev slowly up but has no power.   I first thought it might be leaning out, but it did run fine for almost a year so I'm not sure it's jetting.  I replaced the fuel pump just in case since it was old.  No change.  I really want to check the plugs but i need to shut her down at the top of 3rd in order to do that and i don't think my neighbors would like that

I'm thinking timing, or a vacuum caused timing issue, but I don't have a timing light to check.

the other possibility I'm considering is I've abused the valve springs past their limit. 

Keep in mind it's no longer the stock single barrel, quad carb from a 98 yamaha

General Discussion / Happy Hachi-Go Day
« on: August 05, 2013, 02:18:58 PM »
Happy Hachi-Go day to all you 85 or sr5 guys.

Naomi is getting a night out and a detail tonight

Technical / Missing plugs
« on: July 08, 2013, 08:53:55 AM »
I have a OEM SilverTop engine harness and I'm trying to identify what plugs are missing.

One is a single thick white wire

The other is black w/ orange stripe and black w/ red stripe.

If anyone knows what these are or has ST diagrams that would be a huge help.

Technical / Rear End swap walk through
« on: March 05, 2013, 12:17:31 AM »
Ok, I've been asked by a couple people now, so I decided to do a little write up on swapping rear ends.  It seems like a big thing off the bat, but really, it's not.  Now not EVERY step has to go exactly as I have it written out.  This is how I do mine, so I'm just going to postup, my process.

Step 1: Quite easy and self explanatory, get the rear end up in the air.  Even tho the rear end is on the heavy side, get the car quite high to give yourself plenty of room.

Step 2: exhaust!  If you have a stock exhaust, or a nice over diff exhaust, skip this step, you're golden.  If you have a underdiff like most guys do however, time to rip that b*tch out. (my car didn't have one for quite some time, so no pic.)

Step 3: drive line.  Now this depends in if you are doing a SR5 -> GTS swap, or if you are already GTS.  If you are doing the conversion all you need to do is unbolt the two bolts for the center bearing (see pic)  Don't worry about the diff side, it's all coming out.

Step 3.2: if you are already GTS, and just servicing/swapping your GTS unit, unbolt the 4 bolts connecting the driveshaft and diff housing. (I like to do this first as you can use both the Trans and/or the ebrake to stop the driveshaft from moving on you(for you empty engine bay guys)) (no pic)

Step 4: With the driveshaft out of the way. You will now have access to your ebrake cables. (GTS guys can skip this) first, loosen your cabin ebrake adjustment found underneath the center console. You will see why in the next couple steps.

Step 5: now get under the car and remove the 4 ebrake cable brackets.  There are two for each lower cable.  The first two look like this (see pic). Follow the cables further to find the other two.  I like to loosen them only enough to get the cables out, and put the hardware right back so it doesn't end up missing.

Step 6: okay, now your cables are super loose and floppy, good.  Time to remove the dividing bracket and get these babies out of your way.  You will notice now you have plenty of slack.  Push your one cabin cable into the bracket further. (see pic) You will notice that once its free, you can rotate the end of the cable 90* and it will slip right out.  Once you get the cabin cable free, turn the bracket 90* to allow one of the bottom cables to slip through the gap on the top of the bracket.  Do the same to get the other cable free. (DON'T LOOSE THE BRACKET!)

The cables themselves are held into the chassis by little grommets.  Use a larger flathead, slip in above the cables between them and the chassis.  Use a twisting motion to force them out.(see pic)

Step 7:  now that the cable brake is done, let's get the foot brake pulled off.  Seperate the center soft line from your hard lines (see pic). Use a 17mm wrench to hold the soft line, and a 10mm(line wrench preferred) to loosen the fitting on the hard line.

Step 8: remove the locking nuts and bushings for the rear shocks.  Don't  worry about removing them from the rear end, maybe loosen a touch.  Even if you plan on keeping them, it's easiest to take them out with the rear end. You can re-install them later.

Step 9: now loosen the 4 bolts on your sway bar brackets.  These are the ones that bolt straight to the chassis.  Trust me, it's MUCH easier to take this all out with the rear. Even if you are keeping your sway bar.  You should notice now that the housing is sitting a bit lower now that there is no tension from the sway bar and shocks.  If you have cut, or stiffer springs, now is a good time to pull them out.  If your stock springs still have tension, don't sweat it.

Step 10: unbolt your panhard.  Now if you are keeping yours, unbolt from the housing and prop up on the gas tank heat sheild, or zip tie out of the way.  If you ARE replacing it, or doing bushings, go ahead and remove from the chassis side.

Step 11: now that the rear end is only connected by the 4 links.  Position a jack under the pumpkin to support the weight.  I like to make the housing rise just the smallest amount so I know it's supported.

Step 12:  loosen the 4 link bolts.  If you are keeping your links, do the housing side.  If you are replacing the links, or bushings, do the chassis side. (chassis side is easier, you can always reinstall your links on the new housing.)

Step 13: the bushings should be pretty snug, even without bolts.  Now slowly lower the jack positioned under the pumpkin to ease the housing close to the ground.  If your soft springs are still in, they will decompress fully here.  Your rear end will most likely still hang from the lower two links (the bigger links). This is normal.  Sit just infront of the rear wheel arch, and give the top of the drum/caliper a little kick.  You may need to go back n forth from each side till the last bushing is out.

Step 14: tilt your shocks inward, towards each other and slide out.  This is done easiest by lifting one side and with a helper, or your foot, slide in a creeper as far as you can.  Then simply roll it on out from under the car.  Your rear should be pretty complete and still have the shocks, brakes, brake cables, hard brake line, away bar, and driveshaft attached (unless you were already GTS)

Whala, now clean, refreshen, replace, or throw out what's in front of you, and get ready for install.

Estimated Time: 1:00-2:00 depending on your skill level, work ethic, and smoking habit.

This is common knowledge to some, so if you feel like you wasted your time, challenge yourself in beating my record. 51 minutes from jack up, to rolling housing out from under the car.

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