Author Topic: Wu-Tang is for the children.  (Read 29087 times)

Hackeduphachi

  • Bad ass
  • *****
  • Posts: 1282
    • View Profile
Re: Wu-Tang is for the children.
« Reply #30 on: September 21, 2012, 05:01:34 AM »
LOL.. definatley not debating. I never said 4ag was better than a Sr20. But I have to agree with Dan and Brenden 8) I dont care if my 20v sucks and brenden doesnt seem to mind :P

Dubsky

  • Sr. AZT Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 265
    • View Profile
Re: Wu-Tang is for the children.
« Reply #31 on: September 21, 2012, 07:28:43 AM »
I LOVE 4AG's but Doug, Dubsky, & Dan are the only 3 smart guys here.  One ride in Dan's car and you will drop your purists love.  That thing is nuts.

3D!!!
Dan's car is/was double nuts, and I've never riden in it. But I can imagine. It was geared up with over 300.
Mega interested in how his new rear end turns out.
no homo

If you are building it to be fast and are on a budget, dumping money into the 4ag is the worst thing you could do.
I will agree with this 100%.
[/quote]

Actually that statement is wrong. Worst thing you can do is dump money into the 4ac.. =D
I forgot people do that still. >_>

Hackeduphachi

  • Bad ass
  • *****
  • Posts: 1282
    • View Profile
Re: Wu-Tang is for the children.
« Reply #32 on: September 21, 2012, 07:44:51 AM »
Hahaha 4ac FTW!!!

Dubsky

  • Sr. AZT Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 265
    • View Profile
Re: Wu-Tang is for the children.
« Reply #33 on: September 21, 2012, 10:49:40 AM »
For the record I like David's sr5 and his mods. If you are going to drive one of those around might as well sound cool. BRAPPP

Ric

  • Bad ass
  • *****
  • Posts: 616
    • View Profile
Re: Wu-Tang is for the children.
« Reply #34 on: September 21, 2012, 07:37:34 PM »
I'm going Beams... just because I swore I'd never own another SR and I want 200 hp.   If I remember right
Chaser had 166 rwhp.  I'm fully with doing what you must to meet your needs.

This thread is awesome Dub.  You're really getting this thing going in the right direction.  And yes, absolutely build the car for great grip.  Drifting the car will be easier, especially with your power.  You'll be able to catch the car easier and hold more angle.

JMax

  • Bad ass
  • *****
  • Posts: 1081
  • Not as baller as the Haymaker
    • View Profile
    • JMax Paint Garage
Re: Wu-Tang is for the children.
« Reply #35 on: September 22, 2012, 01:02:10 AM »
The last event I saw Chase drive his ae86 in Tucson, he was at 168whp with pretty aggressive cams (280's IIRC). Conversing with him he mentioned he spent a cool 12K building that motor. He bit a bullet and let it go for around 4K. He then built a pretty decent S13 with close to 400 hp with less than what he paid for to build the 4ag motor...

I am at 1.5K total spent on my SR and I am sure once I drop it in I should be pretty close to 200 whp already. S15 turbo, 800cc injectors, tuning and E85 might put me at maybe 230 whp? All that for under 4K? Hell yes. I gave up on 4ag motors a long time ago. Oh yea, comparing apples to apples, a turbo charged 4ag motor is 30% heavier than an SR20. The Nissan trans weights quite more than a T50 simply because it is sturdier. A BEAMS 3sg is a respectable engine and can last a long time even if turboed. Still, budget-wise, an sr is the best bang for the buck to have something reliable and build a pretty decent fast car. Going back to the garage; this time, my spinal injection is doing what it should have done the first time. Im superman right now. Going back to work, kids, gotta be able to roll my car by next saturday.

jmaxgarage.com - jmxg.com
Project a.d.d. since 2001

Dubsky

  • Sr. AZT Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 265
    • View Profile
Re: Wu-Tang is for the children.
« Reply #36 on: September 24, 2012, 06:30:25 PM »
I am at 1.5K total spent on my SR and I am sure once I drop it in I should be pretty close to 200 whp already. S15 turbo, 800cc injectors, tuning and E85 might put me at maybe 230 whp?

Ahhhh.. those mod's even on a heart breaker dyno should net more then that. Given you run appropriate boost.
Then again you are just decreasing your drivetrains lifespan the more power you make and how much power do you really need? =P I just want e85 for a shit ton of timing in the midrange for the torque, that and the car will never overheat.

Speaking of which.
Testing my water temp gauge at idle the car got all the way up to 210 where my gauge light up and beeped it was hot.
Surprised me since the ka never got more then halfway hot on the factory gauges, sitting at idle, on the az highway, in july, with no fans. Which isn't saying too much since who knows how accurate it was.
ANYWAY, this just shows how the motor was designed for a clutch fan.
I just said, "I UNLEASH THE POWER OF TEN THOUSAND SUNS UPON YOU!!"
and turned on my dual fans. watched the temp go down and down and down..
The gauge is a stepper motor.
so..
you know..
It was cool.
No way this thing is going to have any problems on regular gas unless it's hot lapping.
Funny too because I was told "SR's overheat!" by a guy who somehow seized his turbo 4ag while it still had oil pressure. I don't even want to know.

I'm going Beams... just because I swore I'd never own another SR and I want 200 hp.   If I remember right
Chaser had 166 rwhp.  I'm fully with doing what you must to meet your needs.

This thread is awesome Dub.  You're really getting this thing going in the right direction.  And yes, absolutely build the car for great grip.  Drifting the car will be easier, especially with your power.  You'll be able to catch the car easier and hold more angle.

You have to do beams, no body else has the balls/love.
Here is a thread about a cool celica with a beams: (idk what page it'll start at zt is blocked here)
http://www.ziptied.com/forums/index.php?topic=36619.225
page 24 he dyno'd it at 210 hp/160 tp, "150+ torque from 3000 to 8000"
Some neato vids after that.

Even with 185s the car seems to have a little too much grip for me, they are brand new federals though. Watching video on other sr86s they can actually pick up speed while drifting. Most underpowered-entry level cars you have to enter and just try to maintain your speed as best as possible. Or enter fast and rely on it to get you half way through the turn before in needing to get on the gas.
The fundamentals a corolla is suppose to teach you, which is why you can usually tell on who started in an underpowered car and who didn't at events. I did not have enough seat time in my original corolla to practice anything crazy but I feel comfortable enough with the theory. Plus I watch running free in car non-stop before an event haha.
But being forced into the seat while being pulled sideways out of it is still an overwhelming feeling for me too get use to. I only clutch kicked 2nd in a slow turn twice, the car went more forward then sideways. >_>
Once I firm up the back and the tires get hot.. and I stop being a little bitch everything should be good.

Thanks for the support!

______

To show what I did over the weekend.
First a pic of my terrible ride height



Big ups to my only sponser Brendan Garvey Racing for the brake master Heat shield which I dubbed "Battle star galatica" because it looks like a spaceship from a tv show I've never seen before. I wanted one of the small one's he was selling but I accidentally left it at his house when I was there. So he tells me he'll send one with the cluster David traded me and open the box to find this. I didn't think it was going to fit. I had to trim it and drill a new mounting hole.



In this shot you can also see my tach and water temp signal wire going to the firewall that are going to melt unless I cover them with something. As well as the tube that goes from the valve cover to the inlet of the turbo that somehow popped out of the intake elbow. I thought the metal sleeve was suppose to be pressed in, but I guess not. That happened after I chewed up my cps wires and made me think I still had an issue with it. Running a bov I don't think it'll see any "back-charge?" that would force it out again.

Here is a better shot of the bitchass hose. But mainly showing off where I drilled and tapped for my cts in the water neck.




I flipped this pipe upside down so my bov would be hidden, and I think thats the only way it would fit. But now I have to adjust it blind because I want it harddddddddd. You can see I need a shorter filter or to cut away the inner fender/core support to get enough room to fit another piece of pipe and a coupler in there for a recirc.
The 1" fitting I got is for a different Greddy I guess, so the hose is going to have to be pretty big.
Didn't get a shot of it. that fan ground will be redone and hidden eventually.


"Really good hoses, really bad brackets." If I was in AZ it would be future fab'ed up. This will make do for now.


Mounted this box thingy, ziptied some wires, stared at my fpr, cursed how ugly that boost sensor pipe is, poked my coolant reroute hoses with a stick, you can see my igniter and filter ghetto-fastened.
That whole area alternator back is a mess.



Trimmed this hole so it wouldn't rub through the hose. I do realize I'm rambling at this point but I did a shitload of stuff to get this car ready and I don't overstand how people who don't have to spend 200$ in gas and drive 10 hours to work on there cars can't make events.


HOT SHIT!



Hand cut and dremeled aluminum, handcut the plastic backing, holesaw and file the holes, mini ghetto wire harness because I ran out of butane for my soldiering iron. and stuff all that into the car.
It sucked major dick, and I didn't hook up the fuel gauge yet because I want to be 100% on the wiring for the level sensor. Didn't have enough time to program it either way.

Still got the 3 most important gauges done, I want to fit a 2 5/8ths oil pressure in there but the material between the gauges would of been so thin and the material itself was the thinnest gauge I would use for this. It'll probably go around my radio switch panel area.

The wide band will go in the unconnected left air vent which I think how Dan is doing it? I accidentally picked it up instead of my horn button and stuck it in the middle of my steering wheel and it almost fits.
HOW RICER WOULD THAT SHIT BE!?! Too much to bare..
"I win all the car shows with my steering wheel wideband! The pav's is going crazy over dis shittt"

___

I didn't get one shot of my exhaust, 3 inch looks so awesome on a rolla. I expected it to be around 200$ but the Mexican said I do real good price for you, 90 dolla's. I was like shit yeahhhh. Point and shoot mig job, crush bending at less then 40 degree angles so it shouldn't make any kind of a difference. (2 hp on a dyno oh noes)

From the flange back it is good, they put a hanger in front of the dif where the factory one is, and used my 2 megan "hardened" bushings on the sides of the muffler. I'd say it hangs within an inch of the diff and fits my aftermarket bumper PERFECT.

Before the flange is my resonator and they didn't use my reducers, so that was 30$ wasted. It's a two inch pipe bent a few degrees, expanded to 2.75, and bridged with weld. I think dan would say something overly dramatic like "That is one of the worst things I've ever seen." But it's functional and if it lasts I'll be happy with it.

I missed Automass because I was so busy, kinda lame but it's 50-60s all of the sudden here in the midwest.
I'm running out of typing time so I'll have to finish this tomorrow.
« Last Edit: September 24, 2012, 06:44:57 PM by Dubsky »

Hackeduphachi

  • Bad ass
  • *****
  • Posts: 1282
    • View Profile
Re: Wu-Tang is for the children.
« Reply #37 on: September 24, 2012, 07:10:08 PM »
If he hasnt said anything about the core support I dont think the exhaust will bother him lol jk dubs. I dont wanna know the words that would be used to describe any of the welds on my hachi :P

twincharger

  • Bad ass
  • *****
  • Posts: 1589
  • Bite me!
    • View Profile
Re: Wu-Tang is for the children.
« Reply #38 on: September 24, 2012, 09:27:07 PM »
Always a billion little time-consuming things to do after a swap.

So far, so good...

overspool

  • Sr. AZT Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 396
    • View Profile
Re: Wu-Tang is for the children.
« Reply #39 on: September 24, 2012, 10:36:36 PM »
This thing is awesome.

Ric

  • Bad ass
  • *****
  • Posts: 616
    • View Profile
Re: Wu-Tang is for the children.
« Reply #40 on: September 25, 2012, 08:45:55 AM »
Use more momentum.  As you go faster, the 185's will get less and less controllable.  The biggest problem with the short cars, with me, is the catch when you get them out.  I race Miatas, and have been for years.  I still get surprised... and that's when I'm holding a small slip.

I've only done a few events in the 240 and always on 225 or larger.  Even when I was drifting the Miata, I was on 15" 205s.

Dubsky

  • Sr. AZT Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 265
    • View Profile
Re: Wu-Tang is for the children.
« Reply #41 on: September 25, 2012, 04:51:41 PM »
Use more momentum.  As you go faster, the 185's will get less and less controllable.  The biggest problem with the short cars, with me, is the catch when you get them out.  I race Miatas, and have been for years.  I still get surprised... and that's when I'm holding a small slip.

I've only done a few events in the 240 and always on 225 or larger.  Even when I was drifting the Miata, I was on 15" 205s.

That's what I was hoping for. Yeah getting use to the stability of a shorter wheelbase requires alot faster reflexs/countersteer. Just riding in a 240 or 350z causes me to curse at the driver for having such a stable car. How can you not be able to drive in that!? Comes out so smooth and manageable. One of the reasons I wanted 240 everything, corolla boxy looks, but manageable/easy to drive. The wheel base would be largely uneffected so it would still snap transition. If I ever got skillful enough to whip the car that fast.

This thing is awesome.

Thanks, it is quite nice. But I'm having trouble sleeping at night thinking about all the drive train problems I'm going to have now. Just doing power pulls getting a feel for the car and seeing how consistent it's going to be. Especially how I keep finding small snags here and there, and the ring and pinion just sounds worse after every one. If something "goes out" during warm up of this event like the last one I'm going to walk off the parking lot the event is at and into traffic. 8 hour long event, I think with an hour or so lunch. Better not blow first run. Plus another tow bill is not what I need.
That said I rather have the ring and pinion go then the dif/axle. I think I have a spare axle but usually they both twist (ryan's ka86). Don't even get me started on transmission options. George's z32 option is cool, but the plate is a $430 plus all the other fab/machining, new drive shaft, shorter ratios on a already shorter 4.3 rear, plus the actual trans. EXPENSIVE. Just keep replacing 5-speeds.
Weir ring and pinion with rebuild kit is still over 500$.
If both axle's go I might as well do the ring and pinion with their crazy spool set up? That's still less then the 240 option. But around 1500+$ shipped.. UGH SO STRESSFUL!!!

MOVIE SCENE: Sleep sweating in bed, rolling around having a nightmare, "NO! NOT THE FIRST RUNNNNN! NOT AGAINNNNN"

There's just shit I can do about it, already have heavy shockproof. Fixed the pinion seal leak.
PRAY FOR ME.

Always a billion little time-consuming things to do after a swap.

So far, so good...

Update your JZ build thread status!

If he hasnt said anything about the core support I dont think the exhaust will bother him lol jk dubs. I dont wanna know the words that would be used to describe any of the welds on my hachi :P

It's almost as strong as the factory cardboard core support, I just need to paint them black next weekend.
I'm draining the coolant out hopefully for the third and final time to replace the missing radiator bushing I keep forgetting about.
I've tried to sneak it in but the intercooler and something else won't let it sit in those mounting brackets straight. and install that sealing foam around the fan shroud all fancy like. Then I might feel confident enough to drive it back to Michigan to work on it during the week on mah hoists!  8)

_____

I also replaced the bkr6e's he had in there for who knows what reason with bkr7e11's gapped appropriately.
Now it run's even better, idk if it's because most drift cars are funky thrown together cheap builds, or becuase volvos are noisey, vibrating junkboxs. But I'm not use to car's running so well haha.

I tried to remove the remote filter housing on the block again and just got stabbed with ends of the braided hosing a bunch. Very annoying. Will have victory parade when I finally figure out how to get a tool with leverage in that tiny ass space to get it off.

I keep changing the oil as well since it was pretty black and coked up when I first got the motor. Like it was never changed from the car in japan and threw into this dudes car. New oil and filter and it looked like a normal engine after 4k I'd say. Changed again with the 5w20 mobil one we get here at work. (6.1 quart oil changes mean you get 7 bottles and end up with one extra) drove around the block. Looks greyish now. I'm not changing the filter past that first time so I know some residual oil remains each change but goddam. I only have one more filter and that will be changed pre event. Hopefully next flush gets it clean, I want the turbo and vvt solenoid/gear to last! Volvo has a shit-ton of cam solenoid problems on higher mileage cars running crappy bulk oil.

Did I mention I went on AZ240 for the first time the other day, see a suspicious thread for a cheap remachined toda flywheel. Maybe an hour or two old. Text efrain I want it, send paypal. RANDOM PARTS GET!
also random nerd reference^ Why are those things 500$? Now I get it's chromoly, but is it dipped in unicorn's blood? Signed by Jesus Christ after he won a Frisbee golf tournament with it!?
As long as it doesn't vibrate I'll be happy. I didn't machine my ka flywheel when Tim and I put an exedy stock replacement in and it came back to bite me so hard with a rpm based shaking. NEVER AGAIN!

Most people learn by trail and error. Hands on experience, what have you.. I mainly learn by what is defined as "TRAUMATIZATION"
Write that down.

Phunk Monkey

  • Bad ass
  • *****
  • Posts: 828
    • View Profile
Re: Wu-Tang is for the children.
« Reply #42 on: September 27, 2012, 09:28:04 PM »
Very nice, can't wait for the video update.

Surprised I don't see more cluster set ups like that.  Moar classy
Reviving old threads since 1995

Dubsky

  • Sr. AZT Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 265
    • View Profile
Re: Wu-Tang is for the children.
« Reply #43 on: October 01, 2012, 05:36:24 PM »
A useless post without pics.

Cut my hood inner ribbing so it would touch anything and mounted it on the car. Was ok but still hits my valve cover.
I just let it rubb the ka cover because I hated that motor but things are a little different now. So i cut a hole in my hood for clearance, and to be like my hero dan.. haha
Need to fine tune the hole more, it's gonna be ugly but whatever.

My exhaust has a pinhole leak where it goes from 2.75-3 inch in weld. Don't care until after the event sunday.
NOTHING ELSE MATTERS

Speaking of which when I got my oil filter relocation off! but the nose of the oil filter housing threads were a little mushroomed. (The threaded fitting on the relocation is tapered so it still went on.) I bought some 95 SE-R filters to double check and they would not screw on. Needless to say I couldn't fix this problem so I'm having efrain send me 2 s13 ones. I know my Toyota filters will fit and if somehow one is fucked up, or it doesn't seal, or I fuck it up, I have a spare.
OVERNIGHT PARTS FROM ARIZONA!

Spray painted my brackets black very quickly, hanging them from a tree in the backyard with mechanics wire. Already starting to chip but look so much better.
My radiator for the first time in a long time is sitting properly in some bushings, in the brackets. I expect a decent drop in vibration now.

I still want to get new motor mounts, but my downpipe is flush with the floor board already, I'm guessing the aftermarket manifold is slightly higher then stock. I have a stock mani ready to go on but that's a shit ton of work for a regular garage and I rather have my exhaust break off and make me buy a jsp mani. I am trying to keep my credit card under a certain number.

Replaced 4 foot worth of my fuel line with new fuel injection hose. Previous owner had the line from the rail to the regulator "fuel vapor only, do not use on fuel injection systems." I also needed a little bit to install that fuel pressure gauge. The side reads it's safe for biofuel. =D

My fuel pump relay started to go out. Very dangerous since it's essentially the same as fuel slosh when driving. A turbo car that is only beat on, Glad it happened now, mainly killing the car when it was just idling in the garage. The motor would die and there wouldn't be the usual annoying whine. If it was the pump I would flipped but I kept it cool and my relays are right in front of my shifter. The toggle switch clicked but the relay didn't. BOOM DIAG'd! I had a spare relay riveted on the back of my panel in case I had an urge to wire up something else luckily.
Drill, drill. Car runs again and the pump sounds louder now. I think the relay was slowly building up resistance as well.
If your car runs lean, you're gonna have a bad time M'Kayyyy!

Oh and that breather tubed popped out again. MOTHERFUCKER
I'm bringing the gorilla glue or some epoxy with next time. Kinda tricky since the turbo intake vanes are right there. I need to take it out of the hose and tap the tube in with a hammer. That would be the correct fix I suppose >_>

Bought some over priced racing supply's from pegasus. I figured out how my intake can be recirc'd using the technique efrain first had in this car with that green foam. Also got hose/wiring insulation.

My bumper rubs my drivers front tire without the lower bracket there. UGH

Final list
-oil filter housing
-Intake breather
-bleed coolant
-check for oil, coolant, and fuel leaks
-insulate wires by exhaust
-final cut hood, sand chipping parts, and paint
-correct toe
-adjust rear shocks
-adjust bov supatight
-bumper spacer
-Clamps for bov and fuel filter mounting
-Check rear end 4 link and steering for loose hardware
-route trans breather hose
-Perform serious face test drive
-change oil last time.
-Mount ecu

I'm thinking of hiding the ecu on the backside of the glove box.
Should be pretty trick.


I really regret missing automass 2. If you've seen the videos you know why. Pretty cool stuff, for chicago.. =P
« Last Edit: October 01, 2012, 06:06:12 PM by Dubsky »

Ric

  • Bad ass
  • *****
  • Posts: 616
    • View Profile
Re: Wu-Tang is for the children.
« Reply #44 on: October 01, 2012, 07:01:01 PM »
Hahaha 4ac FTW!!!

Huh ?

Ever driven an SR at full race ?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtvu0L9YabU&list=UUuJsZ5LwuLWDoBXRUd9NnWw&index=12&feature=plcp me in a 12psi SR in a VERY well set up 240sx on 255 RS-3 on 4 corners.  I do have the driver mod though.

skip to 2:20 or so when I run down the EVO and WRX.   Yes, I can competitively drive, but my SR brutally ran down shit.


Yes, the 4AC is sooooooooooo basic to put together, but it is far from winning shit.  My 300* fully built 4AC made maybe 95 wheel horsepower.  I'm rebuilding it now.

A stock SR20DET will do 200 hp or so to the wheel at 7psi.  Go to 12psi and it's game on... I always competed at  11.2:1 HP/lb in my 240sx.  Even then it was close.  Cut off 600lb and it's pull the pin and hope youre where you want to go when it's at full song.


Please, dont let sarcasm/ignorance overun your knowledge.
« Last Edit: October 01, 2012, 07:08:33 PM by Ric »